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Holiday
in Scotland 2000
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This is a diary account for our holiday
in Scotland in 2000. It is
long to read, we were camping for about 2 weeks or more so be warned.
There are pictures etc. to come so please bear with me.
Sunday 6th August
We picked up the tent that was to be our home for the next two weeks from
Nigel's brother. Heading upwards and westwards we hit the M6 and had some
food at the Southwaite Services. We spoke to my uncle and advised him
of where we were. From there we drove to Glasgow and within two hours,
we were at our first destination.
Monday 7th August
We drove from Glasgow towards Stirling and up to Perth. From there we
drove on the A9, the Great North Road. The weather turned to slow rain
and at times very hard sheet cutting rain. We were at times over five
hundred above sea level, we were in the clouds (which were very low down),
and at first I thought that we would not spend the night in the tent.
When we reached Inverness it was still drizzling but we decided to camp
regardless. We pitched camp under a tree as it was raining and learnt
our first rule of camping - don't pitch under a tree! The campsite was
in North Kossock on the shores of the Beauly Firth. The tide was out and
the shore stank. Nigel did not have a good night of it, the ground was
too hard, and the sleeping bag was too small. I had forgotten the pillows
and the camping facilities were not entirely clean. I cannot remember
where we ate that night but we must have as I remember heading back into
Inverness for a meal.
Tuesday 8th August
We decided that we'd head somewhere different and Fort William was the
next destination. We headed down the A862/A852 road down Loch Ness. There
was a line of trees in the way and it was possible on occasions to pull
over and take some snaps (some of which are going to be here) and then
continue our drive to Fort William. As we got to Fort Alexander the weather
brightened up, making our decision to move southwards appear a little
worth while. We sent some postcards from Inverness and we even managed
to get the cameras out for a decent shot at holiday snapping! (Take a
look once they're on line) We ate in the local seafood restaurant and
it was most pleasant! I would recommend it to anyone. It was raining that
evening. When Nigel and I went to bed I asked him to bring his shoes in
under the tent canopy, which he did. He got up during the night (as is
normal) and forgot to make sure that his trainers were in the canopy -
one of then got soaked! Nigel had a better night of it though as he'd
bought an airbed and a larger sleeping bag whilst I bought some air pillows.
Wednesday 9th August
We bought the boots on the Wednesday for the simple reason Nigel's trainers
were wet; mine were getting wet so when Nigel bought his, he bought me
some too! We ate as McTavish's kitchens for breakfast and they have traditional
Highland Dancing in the restaurant in the evenings. We didn't stay to
see it though, don't ask me why but we didn't. Anyway, we went for a drive
later that day around Loch Leven and saw Glen Coe, which I have to admit,
was a beautiful view. We took some photographs of some waterfalls that
suddenly appear at you from the depths of the rocks. For the second night
we camped under the shades of Ben Nevis, which stands at 1343 meters above
sea level. Opening the tent and seeing that mountain look down upon you
is a sight worth remembering; it took my breath away. For dinner I had
my traditional black pudding supper and Nigel had a chicken kebab. I had
picked up a blue wax hat to keep the water off my head since I couldn't
use a camera with an umbrella in that terrain.
Thursday 10th August
It started out somewhat drier that the previous day, even if the weather
was still somewhat fickle. We decided to drive to the Isle of Skye and
see what she had to offer to us. We drove along he A830, passed Loch Eil,
Glenfinnan, Druimindarroch and upwards on that road to Mallaig. Mallaig
was nice, small and compact but it was lovely as the sun was out! We paid
over £20 to drive the car and two occupants to the Isle of Skye.
The boat was a short 30 minutes of sea time and before I knew where I
was, we were being asked to return to our vehicles and drive out the boat
to Ardvasar dock. From there we could drive on a small road up and through
the Isle and it was breathtaking scenery. (I am not sure if we took any
photos but trust me, in the summer time it's worth it) Through the Tourist
Information point at Broadford we found a small place in Lower Breakish
ran by a woman called Chrisann. The house was new (Under ten years old)
and she had a wee baby boy to look after. The small village was scattered
out amongst concrete islands in the peat heather marshes and it was quaint.
Chrisann was (and probably still is) a very charming woman with a wicked
sense of humour. We ate in the local pub (Which was a decent half-hours
walk through the peat bogs and heather but it was worth it) and had a
wee drink.
Friday 11th August
There were several Italians in the same B&B and in the morning when
breakfast was served I was informed of an ancient tradition (I am not
sure if she was trying to wind me up or the Italians or if it were true
but...) about porridge. Apparently if you do not eat it at breakfast you're
supposed to line a drawer (empty of course) and pour the porridge into
it and wait until it goes hard (Usually that night) and then eat it. The
Italians didn't like the haggis or the porridge (I love it and so did
Nigel) but they liked the black pudding. The conversation for the morning
was a subject I can relate to (Providing it contains Rangers or Celtic
as one of the teams), football.
We left there and drove on the A863 to Dunvegan Castle, the home of the
Clan MacLeod. If I had been a MacLeod it would have held more interest
but none the less, I enjoyed it. We drove back on the A87 and drove to
the Skye to Kyle Bridge. I can understand why there is uproar on the toll
on that bridge. It looks as if the bridge was build on a council budget
(or part of the M25) and it's an eye sore (Photo going on line for this).
It is certainly is not worth the £5.70 private car (£41.90
for a coach, full or not or the £14.50 odds for the local buses)
and should we start tolling for the M25, there would be hell to pay. However
because it's Scotland no one seems to give a damn. SKAT (Skye and Kyle
Against Tolling) is a worth while campaign! We drove westwards and headed
for Sheil Bridge, coming across the Castle that the BCC use on their adverts
with the weather balloon: Eilean Donnan Castle. It is famous not just
because of the above reason but also because it is the Castle used in
the Film Highlander. Where the Clan MacLeod leave for battle, that is
the castle. (Enjoy the pictures!) We camped that night at Sheil Bridge,
underneath the Five Sisters (Named as there are 5 ridges in that range).
We took a walk up a small hill (Nigel climbed it better than I did I have
to admit) from which you can see Loch Duich and some pretty views. We
didn't take the cameras out that evening, sometimes it's nice just to
walk and remember things. Nigel won at Pooh Sticks. The first bridge we
used we couldn't tell whose came out first (Using a bridge at the base
of a waterfall is not a good idea) so we called it a draw. The next bridge
we came to the sticks kept getting stuck as it wasn't flowing fast enough
but Nigels' came out and mine didn't.
Saturday 12th August
It was windy wen we broke camp, it had showered through the night but
it didn't take long to pack everything away and set a trail. Nigel wanted
to go to John O'Groats but we had decided the previous evening that it
was too far so we wouldn't go. However since I wanted a closer look at
Stirling and it was southwards of where we were, we agreed that heading
North was a good idea, so across the Grampians we went and then headed
to Inverness once more. This time it was sunny when we arrived and we
took in our brunch, since we'd driven through breakfast. (In truth we
weren't that hungry in the morning!) Xei picked out a campsite at Elbo
near Tain and we pitched camp. There's some pipe music on in the centre
of Durnoch tonight so we're going for a look see and hear!
The marching pipe band was very good, even if they did start about fifteen
minutes late! The marchers at the front were good and there was one of
them, the girl, who didn't seem to be enjoying herself. Once the band
had turned and stopped, I encouraged her to smile (Putting my fingers
in my cheeks and forcing myself to smile made her do the same) and for
the rest of the march she smiled whenever she saw me. One of the pipers
called her Kay and I have to say, she looked very well turned out. Xei
pointed out how formidable something like that would have been in battle
and I have to agree! We went back to Embo and had supper and a drink and
headed to bed.
Sunday 13th August
When we awoke it had rained through the night but we fairly dry, so where
the daddy-long legs under the inner skin. We broke camp and drove further
long the A9, passing another distillery at Brora, which reminded us that
we had passed the Glen Morangie's distillery the previous day! We stopped
at Helmsdale at El Mirage, a local restaurant that reminded me of Dame
Barbara Cartland, everything was in pink! There was a wall full pictures
of Nancy (Whom I assume is the proprietor) with various celebrities (Sally
Whitakar and Ian Botham to name two) and one of Princess Diana. There
were several pictures on the wall, although not immediately obvious, of
Nancy and Dame Barbara Cartland herself.
We played Pooh sticks again, as there is a bridge where the river meets
the sea. Xara won though because Xei picked long pooh-sticks that blew
further up the river from where they started. Pooh-sticks score is 1-1.
From there we passed to Badbea (Which is historically depopulated. I don't
know why but if someone can tell me, I'd be grateful) and upwards to Wick.
We hit a slightly windy route on the A99 and at around 14:00 we arrived
at John O'Groats. There isn't a whole lot to do there, we bought some
more Irn-Bru (Nigel is drinking it like mad) and some gifts. The weather
was beautiful and we took some photos. We left there to head to Thurso,
passing some small quaint looking places on the way. When we reached Thurso
we didn't like the look of the campsite (£5.00 deposit for a toilet
key!) so I took us down to where I thought the Glen Morangie distillery
was, in Brora but I was wrong. We ate in Brora after pitching camp at
the Green Park (for £4.00 a night) which is literally just off the
A9 just as you approach Brora from the north.
Monday 14th August
There wasn't anywhere to get breakfast in Brora and since we did not have
any cooking utensils or a hob, we didn't have anything for breakfast.
At around 9:30 I awoke and we broke camp, determined to find the Glen
Morangie distillery. It had rained during the night so the pitch where
we had made camp was just about the only dry piece of grass on the site!
At around eleven thirty we came across the Glen Morangie Distillery and
had a guided tour. Glen Morangie is one of my favourite whiskies but I
kept getting its name mixed up with the Glen Fiddich one. Glen Morangie
is the third largest (Or correctly speaking, the third most popular whiskey
Scotland produces) distillery in Scotland.
They use bourboned seasoned casks from that USA, put them inside a peat
fire and then put in their single malt, which stays there for 10 years
or so, before being bottled in Edinburgh. If you're a whiskey drinker,
then it's interesting but if you're not, the "Malt Whiskey Trail"
is not one to follow.
After that we headed Southwards once more and came through Inverness.
The weather had turned bad and we stopped for breakfast at a Safeway supermarket,
stocked up on Irn-Bru then headed to Aberdeen. This is the second time
this holiday where we've stayed in a B&B but at least I had a chance
to relax. We ate in a small Irish theme pub and played darts in the Albert
Inn (Which is where we were staying).
I won the first two games of darts, starting at 301 and on the third game
Nigel won. I won't mention the game he won was when he switched from his
right hand to his left for the double two that he needed and that he is
naturally left handed. Neither will I mention that I feel somewhat cheated
on the whole issue!
I started the day on a dram of Glen Morangie and I finished the day on
the same note - two whiskey's later.
Monday 14th August
Kicking off from Nairn we followed the Malt Trail to the Glen Fiddich
Distillery and I found it most impressive. There is no entrance fee and
the tour starts with the history of the William Grant building his distillery
building with his seven sons. After the short film you are taken around
the distillery with someone who speaks your language (Spanish, French,
Portuguese or whatever). Then you're shown the old Malt House, (They stopped
malting their own in 1969) and the washback vats which hold 50,000 litres
of whist and water and so the process of making the whiskey begins. There
are two still houses on site, all fired up with the traditional coat.
Since it was built in 1887, the process itself still hasn't changed, save
the malting process. I don't think that any of the large distilleries
malt their own barley anymore, esp. since Glen Fiddich can get through
4 tons of grist a wash and they can do 4 washes per vat (there are two
vats) per day.
Each of the stills is made of copper and I haven't seen another distillery
in Scotland with this many stills or in such a shape. Every twelve years
they get replaced so they get through a lot of copper.
Glen Fiddich bottle their own whiskey on site (Which is their claim to
fame) and again, I'm not aware of any other distillery in Scotland that
does this, large or small. Nigel bought me a bottle of Glen Fiddich and
we high tailed it out of there (with a wee measure for me later on) and
headed northwards and somehow we ended up 20 miles outside of Inverness.
We tried reaching some friends in Aberdeen but they were not available.
Once again we find ourselves at a campsite, Invernahaven Caravan site.
We went to the RSPB site at the Boat of Garten (Loch Garten) to see some
Osprey's but despite being there for about an hour, we never saw any.
We were told that the female of the pair might have been flown to Africa,
leaving behind her mate and the two nearly fledged chicks. We got some
cool photos of a red squirrel and some smaller birds but not the osprey.
We ate in Newtonmore at a pub called the Glen Inn. The food was very nice
and homecooked and highly recommended for anyone!
Wednesday 16th August
We started out just outside Dalwhinnie and the day was beautiful! Xei
tried to pack the tent up and I started by having a shower and fussing
the local horses, although Xei was not amused at this! We drove to Pit
Lochery, Xei had his hair cut and we had a look around the wooden shops.
We then headed for Perth and the heavens opened up! When I say that the
heavens opened up, I mean that: It lasted ages and bounced off the floor.
We stopped at Stirling Castle and had a wee nose around. To be honest
there wasn't a lot to see but maybe next time a guided tour is required
but Edinburgh had portable tape recordings that just allowed you to listen
as you walked around the castle at your own pace.
The rain fell again and with Xei navigating, we camped at the Queen Elizabeth
Forest and met three French people who had their car flooded in a small
ditch as they tried to reach the same campsite. We spent the evening either
sheltering from the rain in the Forth Inn in Aberforth or talking with
the French people.
Thursday 17th August
We started on the west side of Loch Lomond in the Queen Elizabeth Forest.
We awoke before our French counterparts, who admitted that my warnings
on how cold it was going to be during the night were deadly accurate.
We said our goodbyes and wished them safe journey, still unsure if their
soaked car was going to start. We had breakfast in Callander, which was
quite lovely in a little place called Munchies. Then we drove to Craiglarach
and drove down the eastside of Loch Lomond. We found a campsite at Luss
but there wasn't much there to entertain us in the evening or to eat in
so we drove on to Balloch, then we headed north again on the small backroads
and found a campsite right on the west coast of the Loch. We pitched the
tent and soon afterwards the heavens opened and threw what rain it could
down. The rain went for it hammer and tongues, I was inside the tent inflating
the air bed when the rain started and it sounded as if I were in a kettle
drum. I couldn't hear a thing, not even my own thoughts!
The rain passed and it was a comfort to sit and take some photos of both
the loch and the rabbit that seemed to be hopping around the place! We
drove to Drymen and ate in the Winncok Hotel. Half way through dinner
a pipe and drum band struck up, this made it for me. We drove back to
the campsite and Xei fed a swan cookies but the swan was pestering him
and chasing him and then Xei decided to feed the ducks, something the
swan didn't like and went for him!
Friday 18th August
Today is the last day, homeward bound tomorrow. We started out at Loch
Lomond with a deflated pillow. I gave Nigel mine and tried to sleep on
my fleece - not recommended! We drove across country, aiming for Edinburgh.
It was strange because I was driving through some places that I knew and
lots of places that I did not but we stopped for breakfast in Falkirk.
When we returned to the car all the electric's on the driver's door, including
the mirror, speaker and window had stopped working - need to get it checked
by a dealership I think (Car is still under warranty). Xei and I suspect
that someone tried to break in and failed - we'll see.
From Falkirk we drove to Edinburgh and saw (if somewhat briefly) the Scottish
Parliament Building. And we found a campsite called Gilsland at North
Berwick for £7 a night. Until seven thirty that night it didn't
rain. We went to fetch pie and chips and sausage and chips for tea and
sat in the car to eat them whilst it rained. Afterwards we scoured the
newspapers or I wrote some more to this diary.
If it were possible to not go back to England I would - but I miss my
cat and the car needs fixing so I guess I'll go homeward bound tomorrow.
P.S. I fixed the car, the electric lead had fallen out of the door, and
I noticed it as I was opening the car door to get out, and this is the
first time today I've opened the door completely!
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